Leopard Gecko Care
Facts:
Leopard Geckos are medium size, nocturnal lizards, originally from the dry, desert mountains of Afghanistan, Pakistan, Iran, Iraq and India. They come a wide variety of colors and patterns. Their fat tails, an adaptation which stores water, vitamins and fat, and their body is covered in tubercles, raised bumps, for wedging themselves between rocks and crevices.
Their scientific name is Eublepharis macularius, which stand for "true eye-lid" and "spotted. As adults, they reach between 6-7" and 50-60 grams for females, and 8-9" and 70-80 grams for males, although giants can reach 11 inches and 160 grams. They have large, expressive eyes adapted to nocturnal vision, and the appearance of an ever-present smile.
Leopard Geckos are ideal pets as they are hardy, most often docile, require minimal effort, food and space, and lack the heavy odor associated with many other pets. Unlike many other reptiles they're very aware of their owner and exhibit behavior such as standing agains the sides of the terrarium on their hind legs, begging to be fed or taken out of their enclosure, much as dogs do. Their curiosity and fascinating behaviors makes for interesting personalities and much charm.
Housing:
Leopard Geckos require very little space. The general rule is to provide at least a surface area of 12"x12" per gecko. Hence a 10 gallon terrarium is sufficient, especially if a platform is added to double the square footage. 40+ gallon terrariums are discouraged, especially for younger geckos. Because they are ground dwellers, they do not require tall enclosures. Leopard Geckos like to hide in cave-like dwellings kept on the warm side of their enclosure. They thrive best when housed alone, however, can be housed in groups. Typically, females can be housed together, and a male can share an enclosure with several females. In the latter case, expect eggs. Males will fight to the death and should never be housed together. If keeping several geckos together, offer several feeding dishes and more hides---the first prevents direct competition for food or space.Leopard Geckos housed in crowded conditions often become aggressive and may fight over space and food. Size disparity among geckos housed together may also spark dominance issues, so it is best to house geckos of the same size together.
Substrate:
Leopard Geckos tend to lick or eat anything in their cage. As a result, they may ingest material that may block their digestive tract (intestinal impaction) and lead to death. We do no recommend using loose substrates, such as sand, calcium sand (cements in intestines), walnut shells, sphagnum peat moss, bark or aquarium pebbles. Many geckos, especially babies, have died from ingesting sand while striking at prey. Their high desert habitat consists of limestone or slate rocks, and sediment from the weathering of such rocks, not sand. We recommend slate, faux sand mats, unglazed ceramic tiles, reptile carpet, drawer liner, coco fiber, Excavator or no substrate at all. The majority of breeders agree that paper towels work best. In the wild, Leopard geckos are almost always found in rocky outcroppings, in their dry, mountain desert habitat.
Lighting:
Leopard Geckos are mainly nocturnal, in nature, they hide in dark, humid crevices and are not known to bask in the sun like many other reptiles. Therefore, they do not require UV light and feel most comfortable in a dark, secluded enclosure. They are sensitive to lights and have poor eyesight in bright light, especially albinos. Additional lighting is not recommended, as it could dangerously raise the temperature in the enclosure, as well as cause your gecko to hide, thus defeating the purpose of the lamp. Using lights for heating is also not conducive to creating the recommended temperature range within the enclosure.
Heating:
Leopard Geckos are cold blooded and regulate their own temperature by moving from warmer areas to cooler areas as needed. In nature, they absorb heat through their belly from the surfaces they rest on. We recommend using an under tank heater (UTH) that spans about 1/4 to 1/3 of the floor space on one end of the enclosure. This set up allows the gecko to move to or away from heat within the enclosure in order to adjust its body temperature. This behavior is called thermal regulation and it is crucial to their metabolism, digestion, egg development and immunity. The ideal temperature range for Leopard Geckos is from 70-74 on the cool side of the enclosure to 90-94 over the UTH on the warm side. NOTE-These temperature recommendations are for the SURFACE the geckos will be laying on, NOT the ambient temperature. So, if using a thermometer, thermostat or rheostat, the probe should be in contact with the surface directly above the heat mat (make sure it cannot be dislodged). Do not use heat rocks as they emit more heat than geckos require and can cause serious burns. Leopard geckos are nocturnal, so a bright heat lamp will not only stress them out, it will also create a near constant temperature across most of the enclosure preventing the gecko from thermoregulating. Finally, by placing both the dry and humid hides partially over the heat mat your gecko will have more opportunities to choose it's desired temperature.
Shedding:
Leopard Geckos typically shed every 2-4 weeks, even more often when they're younger. It is critical that all the skin comes off, especially from the eyes and toes. Unshed skin on the toes will cut circulation and cause lost toes. The key to prevent shedding problems is to raise the humidity in the enclosure, when you see your gecko becoming "cloudy," mist the paper towel under their warm hide and sides of the tank; if using a different substrate, simply place a rolled up wet paper towel in their warm hide. Get in the habit of checking your geckos, eyes, toes, vent and nose. Shedding issues tend to be more prevalent during the winter months when humidity in the home drops with the use of heaters. For retained shed, place your gecko in about 1/2" of warm water for 20-30 minutes. Then, use a swab to remove any remaining skin from their toes or eyelid in a rolling motion. For severe cases, it may be necessary to soak a second time, then remove using a swab dipped in coconut or vegetable oil, again, in a rolling motion. To prevent shedding problems, we recommend providing a Humidity Hide (aka moist hide). You may make one using a tupperware with about an 1 1/2" of damp coconut fiber at the bottom, and a small hole on top or on the side. This hide can be placed next to a dry hide, and partially above the heat mat to create another warm, but humid micro-climate within the enclosure (see figure at bottom of page).
Feeding:
In the wild, Leopard Geckos' diet is diverse as they feed on scorpions, spiders, and a variety of insects. In captivity, their diet consists mainly of mealworms, superworms, roach nymphs, crickets, and silk worms. To prevent chocking avoid feeding anything larger than 3/4 the size of their head. Mealworms can be offered in a small feeding dish at all times. Babies should be fed daily until they reach 4" in length (10-15 medium mealworms, 2-3 medium super worms, 5-7 small crickets per feeding). Older juveniles should be fed larger prey every other day until they become full-grown in about 12 months. Adults should be fed twice a week (3-4 large crickets or roaches, 10-15 large mealworms, 3-4 medium super worms per feeding). Feeding waxworms is not recommended as they are high in fat and low in other nutrients; geckos can get addicted to them and refuse nutritious feeders. Large super worms are not recommend as they have very strong jaws and can bite your gecko. Feeding a variety of foods is best, however, do not overfeed as it can lead to fatty liver disease and cardiovascular issues.
Supplements:
Since in captivity Leopard Geckos' diet is not varied, supplementing is critical, as a lack of nutrients can lead to death and serious health issues, including metabolic bone disease (mbd). We recommend dusting feeders with Repashy's Calcium Plus with vitamin D3 every feeding, and making calcium without vitamin D3 available at all times. Other brands of supplements also provide the nutrients required. What's most critical is to provide calcium with vitamin D3.
Gut Loading:
Feeders should be fed nutritious foods, such as pumpkin, squash, collard greens, kale, oranges, whole grain cereal and oatmeal. It is important to prevent the growth of mold on these foods by switching them as needed. Mealworms and superworms will eat anything including moldy foods, thus becoming toxic to your geckos and potentially deadly.
Quarantine:
When adding new reptiles to your collection, remember that they can carry contagious parasites or diseases that can cause suffering or death to existing ones. So, no matter whom you obtain new Leopard Geckos from, remember to quarantine for a minimum of 30 days, preferably 90, as some of these parasites have longer life cycles.
Acclimation:
Prepare the enclosure before your gecko's arrival. Make sure the temperature is within the recommended range, provide water, and place a wet paper towel rolled up into a ball over the heat mat, in case it sheds. Cover 90% of the sides of the enclosure with paper, and remove 10% per week once it starts eating. This will eliminate most of the visual stimulus that might stress your gecko initially. If your gecko arrives colder than room temperature leave it in the deli cup as needed to allow them to warm up gradually. Upon receiving your gecko examine it closely, while avoiding making abrupt movements and loud sounds. This should be the only time you handle it until it has acclimated. The key to their acclimation is to leave them completely alone for at least 3-5 days for juveniles, and 7-10 days for adults, until they feel safe in the new enclosure. Resist the temptation to hold them, this will only add to their stress and prolong this process. Don't offer food initially. In particular don't offer crickets, dubia or superworms, as they will climb on them or nip at them, thus adding to the stress. Ignore them completely (people often lose geckos for months and are surprised to find them alive). You may try feeding your gecko when the recommended time has elapsed (3-5 days for juveniles, and 7-10 days for adults); place active mealworms in dish near the opening to the gecko's hides, and leave the gecko alone for a few hours. If you have a stubborn case, using tongs or forceps, drop an active worm at a time at the entrance to the hide.
Leopard Geckos are medium size, nocturnal lizards, originally from the dry, desert mountains of Afghanistan, Pakistan, Iran, Iraq and India. They come a wide variety of colors and patterns. Their fat tails, an adaptation which stores water, vitamins and fat, and their body is covered in tubercles, raised bumps, for wedging themselves between rocks and crevices.
Their scientific name is Eublepharis macularius, which stand for "true eye-lid" and "spotted. As adults, they reach between 6-7" and 50-60 grams for females, and 8-9" and 70-80 grams for males, although giants can reach 11 inches and 160 grams. They have large, expressive eyes adapted to nocturnal vision, and the appearance of an ever-present smile.
Leopard Geckos are ideal pets as they are hardy, most often docile, require minimal effort, food and space, and lack the heavy odor associated with many other pets. Unlike many other reptiles they're very aware of their owner and exhibit behavior such as standing agains the sides of the terrarium on their hind legs, begging to be fed or taken out of their enclosure, much as dogs do. Their curiosity and fascinating behaviors makes for interesting personalities and much charm.
Housing:
Leopard Geckos require very little space. The general rule is to provide at least a surface area of 12"x12" per gecko. Hence a 10 gallon terrarium is sufficient, especially if a platform is added to double the square footage. 40+ gallon terrariums are discouraged, especially for younger geckos. Because they are ground dwellers, they do not require tall enclosures. Leopard Geckos like to hide in cave-like dwellings kept on the warm side of their enclosure. They thrive best when housed alone, however, can be housed in groups. Typically, females can be housed together, and a male can share an enclosure with several females. In the latter case, expect eggs. Males will fight to the death and should never be housed together. If keeping several geckos together, offer several feeding dishes and more hides---the first prevents direct competition for food or space.Leopard Geckos housed in crowded conditions often become aggressive and may fight over space and food. Size disparity among geckos housed together may also spark dominance issues, so it is best to house geckos of the same size together.
Substrate:
Leopard Geckos tend to lick or eat anything in their cage. As a result, they may ingest material that may block their digestive tract (intestinal impaction) and lead to death. We do no recommend using loose substrates, such as sand, calcium sand (cements in intestines), walnut shells, sphagnum peat moss, bark or aquarium pebbles. Many geckos, especially babies, have died from ingesting sand while striking at prey. Their high desert habitat consists of limestone or slate rocks, and sediment from the weathering of such rocks, not sand. We recommend slate, faux sand mats, unglazed ceramic tiles, reptile carpet, drawer liner, coco fiber, Excavator or no substrate at all. The majority of breeders agree that paper towels work best. In the wild, Leopard geckos are almost always found in rocky outcroppings, in their dry, mountain desert habitat.
Lighting:
Leopard Geckos are mainly nocturnal, in nature, they hide in dark, humid crevices and are not known to bask in the sun like many other reptiles. Therefore, they do not require UV light and feel most comfortable in a dark, secluded enclosure. They are sensitive to lights and have poor eyesight in bright light, especially albinos. Additional lighting is not recommended, as it could dangerously raise the temperature in the enclosure, as well as cause your gecko to hide, thus defeating the purpose of the lamp. Using lights for heating is also not conducive to creating the recommended temperature range within the enclosure.
Heating:
Leopard Geckos are cold blooded and regulate their own temperature by moving from warmer areas to cooler areas as needed. In nature, they absorb heat through their belly from the surfaces they rest on. We recommend using an under tank heater (UTH) that spans about 1/4 to 1/3 of the floor space on one end of the enclosure. This set up allows the gecko to move to or away from heat within the enclosure in order to adjust its body temperature. This behavior is called thermal regulation and it is crucial to their metabolism, digestion, egg development and immunity. The ideal temperature range for Leopard Geckos is from 70-74 on the cool side of the enclosure to 90-94 over the UTH on the warm side. NOTE-These temperature recommendations are for the SURFACE the geckos will be laying on, NOT the ambient temperature. So, if using a thermometer, thermostat or rheostat, the probe should be in contact with the surface directly above the heat mat (make sure it cannot be dislodged). Do not use heat rocks as they emit more heat than geckos require and can cause serious burns. Leopard geckos are nocturnal, so a bright heat lamp will not only stress them out, it will also create a near constant temperature across most of the enclosure preventing the gecko from thermoregulating. Finally, by placing both the dry and humid hides partially over the heat mat your gecko will have more opportunities to choose it's desired temperature.
Shedding:
Leopard Geckos typically shed every 2-4 weeks, even more often when they're younger. It is critical that all the skin comes off, especially from the eyes and toes. Unshed skin on the toes will cut circulation and cause lost toes. The key to prevent shedding problems is to raise the humidity in the enclosure, when you see your gecko becoming "cloudy," mist the paper towel under their warm hide and sides of the tank; if using a different substrate, simply place a rolled up wet paper towel in their warm hide. Get in the habit of checking your geckos, eyes, toes, vent and nose. Shedding issues tend to be more prevalent during the winter months when humidity in the home drops with the use of heaters. For retained shed, place your gecko in about 1/2" of warm water for 20-30 minutes. Then, use a swab to remove any remaining skin from their toes or eyelid in a rolling motion. For severe cases, it may be necessary to soak a second time, then remove using a swab dipped in coconut or vegetable oil, again, in a rolling motion. To prevent shedding problems, we recommend providing a Humidity Hide (aka moist hide). You may make one using a tupperware with about an 1 1/2" of damp coconut fiber at the bottom, and a small hole on top or on the side. This hide can be placed next to a dry hide, and partially above the heat mat to create another warm, but humid micro-climate within the enclosure (see figure at bottom of page).
Feeding:
In the wild, Leopard Geckos' diet is diverse as they feed on scorpions, spiders, and a variety of insects. In captivity, their diet consists mainly of mealworms, superworms, roach nymphs, crickets, and silk worms. To prevent chocking avoid feeding anything larger than 3/4 the size of their head. Mealworms can be offered in a small feeding dish at all times. Babies should be fed daily until they reach 4" in length (10-15 medium mealworms, 2-3 medium super worms, 5-7 small crickets per feeding). Older juveniles should be fed larger prey every other day until they become full-grown in about 12 months. Adults should be fed twice a week (3-4 large crickets or roaches, 10-15 large mealworms, 3-4 medium super worms per feeding). Feeding waxworms is not recommended as they are high in fat and low in other nutrients; geckos can get addicted to them and refuse nutritious feeders. Large super worms are not recommend as they have very strong jaws and can bite your gecko. Feeding a variety of foods is best, however, do not overfeed as it can lead to fatty liver disease and cardiovascular issues.
Supplements:
Since in captivity Leopard Geckos' diet is not varied, supplementing is critical, as a lack of nutrients can lead to death and serious health issues, including metabolic bone disease (mbd). We recommend dusting feeders with Repashy's Calcium Plus with vitamin D3 every feeding, and making calcium without vitamin D3 available at all times. Other brands of supplements also provide the nutrients required. What's most critical is to provide calcium with vitamin D3.
Gut Loading:
Feeders should be fed nutritious foods, such as pumpkin, squash, collard greens, kale, oranges, whole grain cereal and oatmeal. It is important to prevent the growth of mold on these foods by switching them as needed. Mealworms and superworms will eat anything including moldy foods, thus becoming toxic to your geckos and potentially deadly.
Quarantine:
When adding new reptiles to your collection, remember that they can carry contagious parasites or diseases that can cause suffering or death to existing ones. So, no matter whom you obtain new Leopard Geckos from, remember to quarantine for a minimum of 30 days, preferably 90, as some of these parasites have longer life cycles.
Acclimation:
Prepare the enclosure before your gecko's arrival. Make sure the temperature is within the recommended range, provide water, and place a wet paper towel rolled up into a ball over the heat mat, in case it sheds. Cover 90% of the sides of the enclosure with paper, and remove 10% per week once it starts eating. This will eliminate most of the visual stimulus that might stress your gecko initially. If your gecko arrives colder than room temperature leave it in the deli cup as needed to allow them to warm up gradually. Upon receiving your gecko examine it closely, while avoiding making abrupt movements and loud sounds. This should be the only time you handle it until it has acclimated. The key to their acclimation is to leave them completely alone for at least 3-5 days for juveniles, and 7-10 days for adults, until they feel safe in the new enclosure. Resist the temptation to hold them, this will only add to their stress and prolong this process. Don't offer food initially. In particular don't offer crickets, dubia or superworms, as they will climb on them or nip at them, thus adding to the stress. Ignore them completely (people often lose geckos for months and are surprised to find them alive). You may try feeding your gecko when the recommended time has elapsed (3-5 days for juveniles, and 7-10 days for adults); place active mealworms in dish near the opening to the gecko's hides, and leave the gecko alone for a few hours. If you have a stubborn case, using tongs or forceps, drop an active worm at a time at the entrance to the hide.
Humid hide (moist hide) decorated for a more naturalistic look
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Humid hide (hole could be higher up and about 1/3 smaller)
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